Recommendations

Food from the fryer.

Strengths

• As its name suggests, Barfry is a bar and restaurant devoted to foods of the deep fryer, specifically to the Japanese art of Tempura. Two-dozen varieties of deliciously delicate, crunchy, flaky tempura are served in cool blond wood boxes alongside a wicked selection of dipping sauces: sweet miso, red hot chile citrus, jalapeno soy, and wasabi mayo.
• Veggie-friendly options include string beans, pumpkin, peppers, carrots and tofu. Omnivores can choose shrimp, cod, calamari, pork cutlets or even chicken fried steak.
• Beyond tempura, there’s a great selection of hefty Po Boys. Try pork cutlets piled high with kimchee and cilantro and sambal dressing, or sample the chicken fried steak garnished with horseradish, marinated shiitakes, and arugula. I also loved the shrimp topped with spicy slaw and XO dressing.
• Barfry also offers lighter sides like pea shoots in XO sauce and wasabi and olive oil pickles.
• The place has a lively vibe, and is perfect for a casual date, a bite and a beer with a friend at the bar, or a group dinner.

Shortcomings

• The restaurant is lined with subway tiles, and all the hard surfaces can make the restaurant a noise factory on busy nights. Comfortable conversation is occasionally challenging.
• Also, don’t let the tempura sit around before you devour it. Get to it shortly after it’s served—when it’s hot, crisp and fresh from the fryer—or it can get soggy.

Insider tips

• Check out the blackboard for the chef’s daily selection of off-the-menu seasonal specials – you’ll often find fryer-free foods like sashimi, game, and salads. On a recent visit, I demolished the pickled watermelon and avocado salad. It’s tossed with baby arugula in a fierce, eye-watering vinaigrette called HD’s Green Hot (made from fresh jalapeños). I also fought for the last slice of fluke sashimi, which was dressed with spicy white soy sauce, a shower of chives minced into a brilliant pesto, and a splash of lemony yuzu. I wasn’t in the mood for the poached crane with celery root puree – a dish made from a bird hunted by the sous chef – but if you are, Barfry is the place to find it.

Anecdotes

• Barfry’s bathroom walls are lined with long slabs of slate blackboard and pieces of chalk, so try some creative writing on your visit to the can. But don’t get too caught up in reading and writing — your tempura might get cold!

Credentials

• Chef Josh DeChellis once cooked at Union Pacific. More recently, he was the chef at Sumile in the West Village and at the now-shuttered Jovia.